Sportswear Revival
This season sportswear and outerwear took precedence over tailored suiting. Even Armani, the master of the suit, showed a predominance of relaxed looks with soft shoulder slopes in cashmeres and silks. Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu approached this trend from the other end with winter wear tailored as impeccably as any suit with down blazers, performance-ready anoraks, and quilted trousers.
Military Coup
The ’80’s influence of the past few years has finally been usurped by a military coup inspired by the ’30’s and ’40’s. From oversized officer coats at Lanvin to army green great coats and Royal Airforce flying jackets at Burberry Prorsum, fashion’s collective homage to the troops just gets bigger and bigger. Key looks include shearling-lined boots, leather and waxed cotton outerwear and the ever-popular shoulder epaulette.
Heralds of Heritage
Designers this season looked to their roots. Standout examples include Dolce & Gabanna, who focused on their Sicilian work wear heritage, reinforced at their show with a huge screen playing scenes from Sicilian epic movie Baaria. Prada also revisited her roots with a men’s collection that hit notes of ’70’s kitsch in a subdued and commercially balanced manner. Gucci, always the pinnacle of panache for the jet-setting playboy, showed velvet blazers, fringed scarves and amazing weekender bags perfectly sized for a private jet.
Cautious with Color
The colors of the season were soft and accessible, centered in shades of olive, coffee, charcoal and taupe. These base colors were highlighted with strokes of burgundy, camel and cream, as seen at Jil Sander and surprisingly even in the usually all black collections of Dior Homme. The preponderance of neutrals shows that designers understand that men want versatility in their wardrobes and are investment-shopping in key pieces that will last years instead of trending out after a season.
